<p>Applying leveling screed to a concrete base is a popular building practice in SA. This provides a strong, smooth surface to install flooring over. Consult a contractor before screeding a large area, installing a thin floor (&lt; 2mm / 0.08&Prime;) over the screed, or installing screed over underfloor heating.</p>
<p>If you are not installing new flooring and just want to level an old concrete floor use fast track self-levelling compound pumpable (SLC P) fast-track self-levelling screed.</p>

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<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Preparation</h3>
<ul>
<li>The base slab or screed should be sound with a minimum thickness of 40 mm and with a minimum compressive strength of 25 MPa.</li>
<li>The surface must also provide a minimum tensile adhesion strength of 1.5 MPa.</li>
<li>All surfaces must be clean, mechanically sound, and free of laitance, dust, grease, and oil. Vacuum abrasive blast cleaning is the preferred method of surface preparation.</li>
<li>Wet grinding followed by vacuuming may also be used.</li>
<li>Refer to the &ldquo;<a href="https://www.abe.co.za/portfolio/abe-screed-slc-p-methodology/" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><strong>Method statement a.b.e.</strong></a><strong><a style="font-weight: 400;" href="https://www.abe.co.za/portfolio/abe-screed-slc-p-methodology/" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><strong>&reg;</strong></a>.screed SLC P</strong>&rdquo; used&rdquo; for the &ldquo;Surface Preparation&rdquo;.</li>
</ul>

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Bonding / Priming</h3>
<ul>
<li>Concrete surfaces should be primed with&nbsp;<strong><strong>a.b.e.<strong>&reg;</strong></strong>.prime SLC acrylic primer</strong>.</li>
<li>Apply the&nbsp;<strong><strong><strong>a.b.e.<strong>&reg;</strong></strong>.</strong>prime SLC acrylic primer</strong> (refer to data sheet for additional information ) onto the floor surface by means of a brush and leave it to dry before applying&nbsp;<strong><strong><strong>a.b.e.<strong>&reg;</strong></strong>.</strong>screed SLC P 25</strong>.</li>
<li>Priming improves the adhesion of the&nbsp;<strong><strong><strong>a.b.e.<strong>&reg;</strong></strong>.</strong>screed SLC P 25</strong> to concrete, prevents the formation of air bubbles and reduces water absorption into the subfloor.</li>
</ul>

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Mixing</h3>
<ul>
<li>Correct mixing and proportioning of the&nbsp;<strong><strong><strong>a.b.e.<strong>&reg;</strong></strong>.</strong>screed SLC P 25</strong>, is essential for good results.</li>
<li>It is imperative to carry out the &ldquo;flow ring&rdquo; test on each new batch to ensure that the product performance properties are obtained and to provide ease of application.</li>
<li>Refer to the &ldquo;<a href="https://www.abe.co.za/portfolio/abe-screed-slc-p-methodology/" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><strong>Method statement a.b.e.</strong></a><strong><a style="font-weight: 400;" href="https://www.abe.co.za/portfolio/abe-screed-slc-p-methodology/" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><strong>&reg;</strong></a>.screed SLC P</strong>&rdquo; for additional information.</li>
<li>Add 5.0 L of clean potable water to the mixing vessel and whilst slowly stirring, slowly add the 25 kg of powder and mix for 1 minute. Once all the powder has been added mix for a further 4 to 5 minutes at a medium speed until the products consistency is obtained and is lump free and homogeneous. Avoid mixing at high speeds as this may entrap air.</li>
<li>The mix must be applied immediately after mixing, if the mix is left to stand the flow properties will be reduced due to the hydration process and impair the finish.</li>
<li>Excess water may lead to a friable surface and will reduce the strength of the&nbsp;<strong><strong><strong>a.b.e.<strong>&reg;</strong></strong>.</strong>screed SLC P 25. </strong></li>
<li>Do not mix more&nbsp;<strong><strong><strong>a.b.e.<strong>&reg;</strong></strong>.</strong>screed SLC P 25</strong> than can be applied in 10 minutes.</li>
</ul>

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Coverage (Powder)</h3>
<ul>
<li>1.7 kg/m2 per mm thickness</li>
<li>34 kg/m2 at 20 mm thick</li>
</ul>

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Application</h3>
<ul>
<li>Pump or pour the mix over the concrete surface. For pumped application, ensure the continuity of electricity and water supplied is secured. Pump or pour the&nbsp;<strong><strong><strong>a.b.e.<strong>&reg;</strong></strong>.</strong>screed SLC P 25</strong> onto the floor in a continuous operation, feeding fresh material into a wet edge.</li>
<li><strong><strong><strong>a.b.e.<strong>&reg;</strong></strong>.</strong>screed SLC P 25</strong> will level out to a smooth, even finish. Where necessary, release small air bubbles from the newly laid screed with a trowel, spiked roller, or a tee-bar. This practice must be adopted within 5 minutes of application to avoid interfering with the final levelling properties.</li>
<li>Any lumps found in the product are to be removed before placing the product.</li>
<li>Refer to the &ldquo;<a href="https://www.abe.co.za/portfolio/abe-screed-slc-p-methodology/" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><strong>Method statement a.b.e.</strong></a><strong><a style="font-weight: 400;" href="https://www.abe.co.za/portfolio/abe-screed-slc-p-methodology/" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><strong>&reg;</strong></a>.screed SLC P</strong>&rdquo; for the application process.</li>
</ul>

Applying leveling screed to a concrete base is a popular building practice in SA. This provides a strong&comma; smooth surface to install flooring over.

How to level cement screeds

<p>Is your garage floor looking a little sad? Or if you&rsquo;re looking to add a little style and colour to your garage, one of the best places to start is with the floor. If your garage floor is stained with oil, grease, and rust, you can easily give it new life with&nbsp;<strong>a.b.e.<strong>&reg;</strong>.</strong><strong>cote 337 tough epoxy paint</strong>.</p>
<p><strong>a.b.e.<strong>&reg;</strong></strong><strong>.</strong><strong>cote 337</strong> is a durable, hardwearing and fashionable coating, for domestic concrete surfaces such as floors, patios and garages including light industrial applications.</p>

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Preparation</h3>
<ul>
<li>The substrate must be firm, dry, and free from dust and grease. Recommend carborandum block and vacuum clean.</li>
<li>It is advisable to check bonding on unfamiliar surfaces. Older coatings must be sanded.</li>
<li>The substrate must be dry before application.</li>
<li>Concrete substrate must have a minimum tensile strength of 1.5 N/mm2.</li>
<li>Concrete shall be free of all laitance and preferably should be lightly vacuum blast cleaned leaving a uniform texture.</li>
</ul>
<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">GOOD TO KNOW:</h3>
<p>All blemishes in the surface such as pop-outs, omegas, blowholes and honeycomb should be patched with <strong>epidermix 201</strong>. This should be left overnight to cure and shall then be rendered smooth.</p>
<p>Or use <strong>epidermix 318</strong> or <strong>epidermix 372</strong> for patch repairs. For a smooth final finish, the surface profile, peak to valley, should not exceed 25% of the coating thickness.</p>

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Bonding / Priming</h3>
<ul>
<li>Apply 10% diluted&nbsp;<strong><strong><strong>a.b.e.<strong>&reg;</strong></strong>.</strong>cote 337</strong> as a prime coat</li>
</ul>

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Mixing</h3>
<ul>
<li>To ensure good mixing, mechanical mixing equipment should be used (below 400 r.p.m) and avoid air incorporation (Jiffy type stirrer is ideal).</li>
</ul>

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Application</h3>
<ul>
<li>After mixing, apply with a mohair roller.</li>
<li>Opened containers must be closed immediately to prevent evaporation and skin forming. It is advisable to use opened containers as quickly as is possible and completely.</li>
</ul>

Is your garage floor looking a little sad&quest; Or if you're looking to add a little style and colour to your garage&comma; the best places to start is with the floor.

How to coat your garage floor

<p>An average home loses up to 30% of its heating and cooling energy through air leaks. The most significant air leaks tend to occur around windows and doors. To stop air leaks and prevent your home heating and cooling rands from vanishing in the wind, it&rsquo;s important to seal any air leaks around windows and doors.</p>

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Preparation</h3>
<ul>
<li>Contact area must be dry, clean, sound and free from contaminating substances such as oil, grease, asphalt tar and dust.</li>
<li>Clean and degrease surface with methylated spirits or isopropyl alcohol. Dampness in porous substrates can be tolerated.</li>
</ul>

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Application</h3>
<ul>
<li>Cut tip of nozzle at the angle required. Apply&nbsp;<strong><strong>a.b.e.<strong>&reg;</strong></strong>.PAINTERS</strong> acrylic sealant from a caulking gun using sufficient pressure to ensure adequate contact with sides of joint.</li>
<li>The surface of the joint may be smoothed over with a tooling spatula that has been sprayed with a mild solution of liquid soap and water.</li>
</ul>

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Paint</h3>
<ul>
<li>Paintable in one hour at 25 &ordm;C.</li>
</ul>

An average home loses up to 30&percnt; of its heating and cooling energy through air leaks. The most significant air leaks tend to occur around windows and doors.

How to seal window and door frames

<p>Concrete water features generally last many years before developing small cracks, crumbles or figurines that release from the base. Cement repair is easily accomplished by the do-it-yourself homeowner in short time and with little expense. After the repairs are made, you can re-seal your entire fountain with a clear sealant or paint it to create a garden focal point that appears new.</p>

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Preparation</h3>
<ul>
<li>Cleaning surface with a light sand, grit blasting, and/or scabbling to remove all loose material, contaminants such as oil, grease, corrosion products or any other deleterious materials.</li>
<li>All repairs to be cut back to a minimum of 5mm to a sawn edge.</li>
<li>Minimum application of epidermix 319 is 5mm.</li>
</ul>

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Mixing</h3>
<ul>
<li>The base component should then be folded over the hardener and the whole material kneaded until the resultant mortar has an even consistency and uniform colour.</li>
<li>Do not add water to the mixed mortar.</li>
<li>Mixing takes at least five minutes as all lumps must be broken down and an evenly wetted mortar obtained.</li>
</ul>
<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Coverage:</h3>
<p>1 litre/m2/1mm thickness.</p>

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Application</h3>
<ul>
<li>epidermix 319 must be applied with a wood float. Smooth finish can be achieved using a wetted steel float.</li>
<li>epidermix 319should not be used in overhead locations.</li>
<li>epidermix 319 can be applied in a single layer up to 50mm thick horizontally and up to 12mm thick vertically.</li>
</ul>
<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Good To Know</h3>
<ul>
<li>Do not split the kit – use as supplied.</li>
<li>Do not expose to moving water during application.</li>
<li>Do not use at temperatures below 5°C or above 35°C</li>
</ul>

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Secure</h3>
<ul>
<li>Use the tape and secure the broken pieces together.</li>
<li>Allow to dry and remove tape.</li>
</ul>

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Coat</h3>
<ul>
<li>super laycryl or hydroproof can be used as a coat. Both products have excellent weathering properties, adhesion and is tough, flexible and non-toxic and it comes in a wide range of colours.</li>
<li>First coat – Brush on a fairly thick coat of super laycryl (1 litre/m2).</li>
<li>Second coat – Once the ﬁrst coat has dried sufﬁciently to take working trafﬁc (2 – 3 hours depending upon weather) apply a second coat of super laycryl (0.5 litre/m2).</li>
<li>Third and final coat can be applied when the second coat is dry at right angles of the second coat (0.5 litre/m2).</li>
</ul>

Concrete water features generally last many years before developing small cracks&comma; crumbles or figurines that release from the base.

How to adhere a concrete garden feature

<p>A concrete fish/koi pond adds interest to the landscape by providing habitat for these colourful fish. However, concrete is a porous surface and can eventually leach lime and other chemicals into your pond or loose water through cracks. Therefore, you need to seal the pond with a waterproofing compound like super laykold, a rubberised bitumen emulsion that can be reinforced with <strong>abe&reg;.membrane</strong> to provide a seamless professional waterproofing system. It is also non-toxic and koi/fish friendly.</p>

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Preparation</h3>
<ul>
<li>All surfaces to be clean, dry, sound, free from all laitance, fungal growth, grease, oil or loose and flaking particles.</li>
</ul>

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Mixing</h3>
<h4 class="text-xl font-bold">ALL SURFACES (EXCEPT METAL)</h4>
<ul>
<li>Mix 1 part super laykold with 1 part clean water and prime the total area to be covered. As a guide 0.25 L of diluted primer will cover 1 m&sup2;.</li>
<li>Allow to dry.</li>
<li>Stir well before use</li>
</ul>

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Application</h3>
<h4 class="text-xl font-bold">First coat</h4>
<ul>
<li>Brush or roll on a fairly thick coat (0.75L/m&sup2;) and embed <strong><strong>a.b.e.<strong>&reg;</strong></strong>.membrane</strong> well into the wet coating.</li>
<li>On flat surfaces, it is recommended to use a fluted aluminium roller for this purpose.</li>
<li>Membrane overlaps should be a minimum of 100 mm on end laps and 75 mm on side laps.</li>
<li>Not required to apply membrane everywhere, but essential over cracks, gaps and right angles.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>
<h4 class="text-xl font-bold">Second coat</h4>
<ul>
<li>When the first coat has dried sufficiently (2 &ndash; 3 hours), apply a second coat of super laykold (0.75 L/m&sup2;) to ensure the membrane is completely saturated and allow to dry.</li>
<li>To ensure saturation, apply the second coat in the other direction to the first coat.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>
<h4 class="text-xl font-bold">Third coat</h4>
<ul>
<li>Apply a final coat of super laykold (0.6 L/m&sup2;) to give a smooth finish.</li>
<li>Coverage 2.1 L/m&sup2; full system</li>
</ul>

<h3 class="text-xl font-bold text-2xl">Cleaning</h3>
<ul>
<li>Tools, brushes and mixing equipment should be cleaned immediately after use and before material has set with&nbsp;<strong><strong>a.b.e.<strong>&reg;</strong></strong>.super brush cleaner</strong>.</li>
<li>Wash with soap and water.</li>
</ul>

A concrete fish&sol;koi pond adds interest to the landscape by providing habitat for these colourful fish. However&comma; concrete is a porous surface

How to waterproof a fish or koi pond

<p>theWORKS sealant and adhesive secures and seals &ndash; no limit. Apply theWORKS in wet or dry conditions on virtually any substrate and get a secure fix and seal quickly and easily. There&rsquo;s no shrinkage, no staining, no solvents and no need for additional fixings for most applications. It resists mould growth, is flexible and over paintable with water based paint. It can be used on most surfaces and substrates where a seal or bond is needed including, wood, metal, glass, stone, plastics, polystyrene, concrete, tiles mirrors, plasterboard and more.</p>

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<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Preparation</h3>
<ul>
<li>Ensure substrates, gaps and cracks are clean and free from dust, dirt and grease.</li>
</ul>

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Application</h3>
<ul>
<li>Press down the gun’s release tab and pull the pressure valve.</li>
<li>Insert theWorks into the gun.</li>
<li>Cut off the tip of the cartridge, screw on nozzle and cut its tip to required width.</li>
<li>To secure: Apply theWORKS in dots or beads, once applied surfaces should be firmly pressed together.</li>
<li>To seal: Apply a continuous bead of theWORKS ensuring it makes full contact with the sides of the joint.</li>
</ul>

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Coverage</h3>
<ul>
<li>Depending on joint size, should apply approximately 7.8 m per 290 ml cartridge on a 6 mm x 6 mm joint.</li>
<li>theWORKS may be overpainted with water based paints. </li>
</ul>

theWORKS sealant and adhesive secures and seals no limit. Apply theWORKS in wet or dry conditions on virtually any substrate

No limit secure and seal

<p><span style="color: #4c4c4c; font-family: Karla, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; background-color: #f7f7f7;">It is strongly recommended that when you need to do waterproofing and you want to ensure quicker turnaround time, choose a peel-and-stick membrane.&nbsp;&nbsp;</span><span style="box-sizing: border-box; font-weight: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; line-height: inherit; font-family: Karla, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; vertical-align: baseline; color: #4c4c4c; background-color: #f7f7f7;"><strong style="color: #000000; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Open Sans', 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif; font-size: medium;">a.b.e.<strong>&reg;</strong></strong>&nbsp;peel and stick membrane&nbsp;</span><span style="color: #4c4c4c; font-family: Karla, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; background-color: #f7f7f7;">is a self-adhesive waterproofing membrane comprising of bitumen incorporated in a polypropylene fabric that is easy to apply &ndash; no special equipment required, just measure, cut, peel and stick.&nbsp; Furthermore easily coat it with a cementitious or acrylic paint to match the surrounding structure. Ideal for low thresholds that will not accommodate multi-layer built up systems to receive tiles and waterproofing floor areas of patio&rsquo;s, balconies, wet areas in kitchens, bathroom and showers to receive tile adhesive and tiling</span></p>

How To

STEP-BY-STEP

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Preparation</h3>
<ul>
<li>The surface needs to be clean, sound, dust free and dry.</li>
<li>All surfaces must be smooth without sharp protrusions that may puncture the membrane.</li>
</ul>

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Priming</h3>
<ul>
<li>Prime all prepared surfaces using bitu.&reg;prime and allow it to dry.</li>
</ul>

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Application</h3>
<ul>
<li>Ensure all inside and outside detailing are completed first.</li>
<li>Measure, cut and peel.</li>
<li>Remove release paper.</li>
<li>Carefully apply the membrane whilst you remove the release paper and by hand firmly press the&nbsp;<strong><strong>a.b.e.<strong>&reg;</strong></strong>peel</strong> and stick membrane onto the prepared primed surface.</li>
<li>Using the rubber roller ensure that there are no creases or air bubbles present and fully bonded to the substrate.</li>
<li>Heat weld overlaps.</li>
</ul>

It is strongly recommended that when you need to do waterproofing and you want to ensure quicker turnaround time&comma; choose a peel-and-stick membrane.

How to waterproof your roof with peel and stick membrane

<p>You need to inspect your roof &ndash; fixing a leaking roof is relatively easy once you have found the leak. Finding the leak is the hard part as evidence of the leak may not be where the actual leak is occurring due to the water flowing downhill before soaking into a wall or ceiling. bitu.&reg;seal plastic may be used to seal most rooﬁng defects: sheeting overlaps, valleys, gutters, downpipes and enlarged screw holes and to repair roof cracks, ﬂashings, cracked roof tiles and patch repair to roofs.</p>

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HOW TO

STEP BY STEP

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<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">How to find a roof leak</h3>
<ul>
<li>If you have water stains on your ceiling or running down interior walls, inspect your roof upwards from the stains, paying special attention to areas where flashings are used, such as around chimneys or satellite dishes. These may be directly above the leak or to the left or right of it.</li>
<li>Also look out for cracked or missing tiles, which you should replace immediately.</li>
<li>Go into your roof space with a torch and try and look for water stains, black marks or mould on the ceiling.</li>
<li>If you still can&rsquo;t find where the leak is, go onto the roof with a garden hose and run water onto the area just above where the leak appears in the house, starting low down. Ask someone to go inside the house and wait for a drip to appear. Let the hose run for quite a while in one area and then move it up a little further.</li>
<li>If you have a galvanised iron roof, you need to check the roofing screws and make sure that the rubber or plastic washers are still intact. Ensure that roofing screws are secure. If loose, the roof sheets will lift when the wind is blowing and the rain will be driven by the wind under the sheets. Areas that have rusted through will contribute to the scenario mentioned above.</li>
<li>If any of your roof tiles have been knocked or blown out of place, you may just need to straighten them out. If a tile is cracked, you can just repair it.</li>
</ul>

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Mixing</h3>
<ul>
<li>Stir well before use.</li>
</ul>

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Priming</h3>
<ul>
<li>All surfaces to be clean and dry.</li>
<li>Prime with a coat of bitu.&reg;seal plastic, which should be allowed to dry prior to another application of bitu.&reg;seal plastic, except for steel which must be coated with a suitable anti-corrosion primer like&nbsp;<strong><strong>a.b.e.<strong>&reg;</strong></strong>.4-metal</strong> primer.</li>
</ul>

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Application</h3>
<ul>
<li>Coverage application thickness: As needed up to 30 mm.</li>
<li>bitu.&reg;seal plastic may be applied by trowel, putty knife, extrusion gun or gloved hand. bitu.&reg;seal plastic can be used in conjunction with super laykold tape or super laykold paintable tape.</li>
<li>If there are areas on the roof that are allowing ingress of water, such as valleys or damaged flashings, a temporary solution is super laykold tape or super laykold paintable tape.</li>
<li>Tools, brushes and mixing equipment should be cleaned immediately after use and before material has set with abe&reg; super brush cleaner followed by washing with soap and water.</li>
<li>Where the bitu.&reg;seal plastic is to be exposed to the effects of sunlight and ultra-violet radiation, it is recommended that 3 &ndash; 4 weeks after being applied, it may be coated with&nbsp;<strong><strong>a.b.e.<strong>&reg;</strong></strong>.silvakote</strong>.</li>
</ul>

You need to inspect your roof&comma; fixing a leaking roof is relatively easy once you have found the leak. Finding the leak is the hard part

How to find a roof leak and repair it yourself

<p>Concrete is a durable and versatile material but there are many factors that can lead to defects. Normal wear and tear can create dangerous situations and is unsightly. <strong>epidermix 318</strong> can be used to repair concrete spalling, holes in concrete, and pitted concrete floors.</p>

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Surface preparation</h3>
<ul>
<li>Remove any debri using the wire brush or broom.</li>
<li>All surfaces must be clean, mechanically sound and dry.</li>
<li>For honeycomb areas or wider cracks use the chisel and hammer to chip the surface.</li>
<li>This will expose the main aggregate and in the case of honeycomb, all suspect material must be cut out.</li>
</ul>

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Mixing</h3>
<ul>
<li>Set up equal volumes of Base and Activator side by side on a clean board.</li>
<li>Do not take more than about 250 ml of each compound.</li>
<li>Mix thoroughly with a trowel or spatula.</li>
<li>Mixing ratio – 1 base : 1 activator.</li>
</ul>

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Application</h3>
<ul>
<li>Coverage recommended application thickness: 25 mm.</li>
<li>Mixed <strong>epidermix 318</strong> should be pressed into place in the repair area using a small amount ﬁrst to wet out the surface and then building up the required thickness.</li>
<li>The viscosity of <strong>epidermix 318</strong> is sufﬁcient to hold its place in sofﬁt repairs and on vertical faces.</li>
<li>If the volume is too big to repair in one placing, leave the contact surface rough to act as a key for a subsequent placing once the ﬁrst one has set.</li>
<li>A ﬁnal smooth ﬁnish may be obtained by trowelling off the surface of the still uncured <strong>epidermix 318</strong> with water dampened steel trowel.</li>
<li>Application by gloved hand or steel trowel.</li>
</ul>

Concrete is a durable and versatile material but there are many factors that can lead to defects.  Normal wear and tear can create dangerous situations.

How to fix holes in concrete

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Cementitious coating for brick, palster, mortar, screeds and concrete</h3>
<p><strong>dura.cote</strong> decorative waterproofing is a polymer modified cementitious based aesthetically decorative or waterproofing coating for walls and floors in both domestic or commercial applications. The product mixes easily with water to provide a smooth paste consistency applied by brush or trowel for smooth or textured finishes all in one application.</p>

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Choose your colour</h3>
<ul>
<li>Wide range of colours available: charcoal,, limestone, oat, sand, tan and white</li>
</ul>

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Preparation</h3>
<ul>
<li>The surface is to be sound, thoroughly cleaned by means of a wire or stiff bristle brush ensuring that it is free of all loose and friable material, paint and foreign matter.</li>
<li>Static cracks need to be scraped clean ensuring that all dust and loose particles are removed and filled with <strong>dura.crack filler</strong>.</li>
<li>For decorative finishes adjoining surfaces where one side is painted the corresponding side also needs to be painted in the same colour and allowed to dry to avoid colour variations prior to applying the <strong>dura.cote</strong> decorative waterproofing.</li>
<li>Dry wall portioning joints require jointing tape and the entire surface to be painted with a suitable oil based primer.</li>
</ul>

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Mixing</h3>
<p>Mixing ratio:</p>
<ul>
<li>5 kg dura.cote decorative waterproofing to 2 litres of water.</li>
<li>Add 1.6 litres potable water to a clean mixing vessel and whilst stirring using a flat paddle or a suitable mortar mixer slowly sift 5 kg dura.cote decorative waterproofing into the water</li>
<li>Continue mixing until a smooth lump free consistency is obtained.</li>
<li>Add the balance of water, 0.40 litres and mix thoroughly for at least 3 minutes until a homogenous smooth consistency is obtained.</li>
<li>Continue mixing during application to prevent any product settlement.</li>
</ul>

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Application</h3>
<p>First coat:</p>
<ul>
<li>To the pre-dampened surface liberally apply the dura.cote decorative waterproofing using a suitable brush ensuring that all fine cracks, pinholes and depressions are covered.</li>
<li>The surface needs to be cured with a fine mist spray of water as soon as the surface will not be marred and this must be maintained for at least 6 to 8 hours to prevent crazing or cracking.</li>
<li>In hot climates or in direct sunlight and high winds the surface needs to be protected to prevent rapid drying of the product. </li>
</ul>
<p>Second coat:</p>
<ul>
<li>Should a second coat be required, pre-dampen the surface after the first coat has dried for approximately 6 to 8 hours and repeat the first coat process.</li>
</ul>
<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">GOOD TO KNOW:</h3>
<p>The brush type will dictate the type of texture-finish required.</p>
<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Curing</h3>
<ul>
<li>Once the dura.cote decorative waterproofing has dried sufficiently apply a fine mist spray to wet the surface for at least 24 hours to minimize crazing or surface dusting.</li>
<li>Where windy and hotter climates are experienced curing becomes more critical.</li>
<li>Allow the application to dry before applying an appropriate clear sealer.</li>
<li>In colder conditions the product will cure slower and do not apply the product unless the surface and ambient temperature is greater than 5 oC or when rain is imminent.</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Coverage</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>25 kg: 5 m2 at approximately 5 mm thick</li>
<li>5 kg: 1 m2 at approximately 5 mm thick</li>
</ul>

A cementitious based aesthetically decorative or waterproofing coating for walls and floors in both domestic or commercial applications.

How to use dura cote

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Protective coating of asphalt driveways using abe<strong><em>&reg;</em></strong>.cote SF 356</h3>
<p>An asphalt driveway offers a variety of benefits such as holding up better in extreme weather conditions, easy to repair, maintains appearance and elegance for a long time due to its dark colour. The initial cost of installing an asphalt driveway is cheaper than cement and offers a smooth and quiet driving surface, however sealing is an important aspect of maintaining your asphalt driveway.</p>

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Preparation</h3>
<ul>
<li>With new asphalt &ndash; simply ensure surface is clean with no contamination.</li>
<li>With old asphalt &ndash; first clean by high pressure washing and simultaneously rinse off thoroughly with plenty of clean water.</li>
<li>Allow to dry completely.</li>
</ul>

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Small surface repairs using abe<strong>&reg;</strong>.cote SF 356 mortar (not larger than 300 x 200mm and 20mm deep)</h3>
<ul>
<li>Prepare mortar mix using a 2 litre kit of&nbsp;<strong>a.b.e.<strong>&reg;</strong>cote</strong> SF 356 and 7 to 8 litres or +/- 13kg of&nbsp;<strong><strong>a.b.e.<strong>&reg;</strong></strong>silica</strong> sand No 1 (approx. half of the 25kg bag)<br /><em>(Note: Thoroughly pre-stir the&nbsp;<strong><strong style="font-style: normal;">a.b.e.<strong>&reg;</strong></strong>cote</strong> SF 356 base and activator components separately, before blending them together. Never use the same mixing paddle when stirring the base and activator individually.)</em></li>
<li>Mix the&nbsp;<strong><strong>a.b.e.<strong>&reg;</strong></strong>cote</strong> SF 356 base and activator thoroughly for 5 minutes using a flat mixing paddle Introduce the clean dry silica sand and blend in until thoroughly wetted out.</li>
<li>The desired outcome would be a stiff, yet workable and trowel compactable repair mortar (this mixture would yield approximately 6,7 litres and would be enough to repair 4 number 200mm x 300mm size holes of approximately 25mm deep).</li>
<li>Once all holes have been filled, allow to cure for approximately 12 hours (timing is temperature dependant). After this proceed with coating the entire driveway.</li>
</ul>

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">GOOD TO KNOW:</h3>
<p>The product is initially shiny but eventually dulls to a matt black which is easy to clean, resists oil and many other substances which are potentially damaging to normal asphalt.</p>
<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Coating Asphalt driveway</h3>
<ul>
<li>Mix&nbsp;<strong><strong>a.b.e.<strong>&reg;</strong></strong>.cote</strong> SF 356 for 5 minutes as before (but no addition of sand this time).<br /><em>(Note: Thoroughly pre-stir the&nbsp;<strong><strong style="font-style: normal;"><strong>a.b.e.<strong>&reg;</strong></strong>.</strong>cote</strong> SF 356 base and activator components separately, before blending them together. Never use the same mixing paddle when stirring the base and activator individually.)</em></li>
<li>After the base and activator have been mixed together pour the product into several paint trays to reduce bulk volume and thereby avoid exotherm (heat generation and accelerated setting).</li>
<li>Then immediately spread, roll out onto surface using squeegee or roller. Spread rate and consumption will vary depending on surface profile and thickness desired (approximately 0,5 to 1,0 litre /m2 consumption is average).</li>
<li>If a slip-resistant surface is preferred, this can be obtained by broadcasting a dry silica grit of desired coarseness into the still wet coating.</li>
<li>When working on asphalt surfaces never dilute the&nbsp;<strong><strong>a.b.e.<strong>&reg;</strong></strong>.cote</strong> SF 356.</li>
<li>Driveways longer than 6 m would require a separation break in coating continuity at maximum every 6 metres centres. This break can be as narrow as a 6 mm wide strip.</li>
<li>Protect coated surface from traffic and allow curing for 3 days. Curing of the surface at 25 &deg;C normally could have foot traffic after 24 hours, vehicle traffic after 3 days, and full cure is reached at 7 days.</li>
</ul>

An asphalt driveway offers a variety of benefits such as holding up better in extreme weather conditions&comma; easy to repair&comma; maintains appearance

How to coat your asphalt driveway

<p>Plastering onto brickwork, concrete blocks, drywalling, ceiling board, and as a finishing plaster over sand cement renders is an integral part of any house build or renovation – it leaves the option of a smooth durable finish or a brush / textured finish on walls and ceilings you can admire for years to come.</p>

<h3 class="text-4xl font-bold text-2xl">Preparation</h3>
<ul>
<li>All surfaces to be clean, dry, sound, free from all laitance, fungal growth, grease, oil, or loose and flaking particles.</li>
<li>Use clean tools.</li>
</ul>

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Mixing</h3>
<ul>
<li>Water/powder: 55 &ndash; 65 ml water to 100 g plaster.</li>
<li>Add 40 kg&nbsp;<strong><strong><strong>a.b.e.<strong>&reg;</strong></strong>.</strong>lite</strong> to 22 &ndash; 26 L of water.</li>
<li>Allow soaking for 5 minutes.</li>
<li>Mix until lump-free to a smooth paste.</li>
<li>For best results use water that is 20 &deg;C to 25 &deg;C, approximately 22 L per bag.</li>
</ul>

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Application</h3>
<ul>
<li>Apply to clean surface.</li>
<li>Sprinkle water onto the surface.</li>
<li>Apply&nbsp;<strong><strong>a.b.e.<strong>&reg;</strong></strong>.lite</strong> finishing plaster onto the surface with a steel or rubber-faced float.</li>
</ul>
<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">After 20 &ndash; 30 minutes</h3>
<ul>
<li>Level with steel float.</li>
</ul>
<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">After 45 &ndash; 55 minutes</h3>
<ul>
<li>Moisten the float that has a carpet or rubber face finish and float the surface to raise the fines to the surface (&ldquo;fat&rdquo;).</li>
</ul>
<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">After 60 &ndash; 70 minutes</h3>
<ul>
<li>Final finishing by scraping off the excess fines and proceeding by steel floating to obtain a smooth polished finish.</li>
<li>Do not mix more <strong>abe&reg;.lite</strong> then you can apply.</li>
<li>Do not apply less than 3 mm thick.</li>
<li>Do not retemper the mix, if the mix becomes unworkable, discard it and mix a fresh batch.</li>
<li>Pot life of mixed plaster: 40 &ndash; 70 minutes.</li>
<li>Initial set: 65 &ndash; 90 minutes. Final set: 75 &ndash; 130 minutes.</li>
<li>Typical drying time on board is 2.5 &ndash; 3.5 hours</li>
</ul>
<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Coverage</h3>
<ul>
<li>Thickness m2</li>
<li>1-3 mm thick 28 m2</li>
<li>5-6 mm thick 11.5 m2</li>
<li>12-15 mm thick 4.5 mm2</li>
</ul>

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Cleaning Clean</h3>
<ul>
<li>all tools and mixing vessels thoroughly with water before mixing the next batch.</li>
</ul>

Plastering onto brickwork&comma; concrete blocks&comma; drywalling&comma; ceiling board&comma; and as a finishing plaster over sand-cement renders.

How to plaster with a.b.e.&reg;.lite

<p>Before embarking on tiling your shower ensure that the shower is waterproof. To ensure a waterproof installation it is necessary to waterproof the shower enclosure prior to tiling. If you’re renovating the shower it is recommended to remove the existing tiles and start the waterproofing and tiling process from scratch.</p>

Step-By-Step

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Surface preparation</h3>
<p>Surfaces must be free from oil, grease, wax, dirt or any other form of foreign matter. Spalled surfaces or those containing large blowholes and other defects i.e. cracks should be repaired using duraflex&reg; or an&nbsp;<strong>a.b.e.<strong>&reg;</strong></strong>&nbsp;approved repair system.</p>

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Mixing</h3>
<p>Use a suitable paddle to stir with. (recommend a paddle mixer or other approved spiral paddle attachment on a variable speed drill.&nbsp; The preferred drill speed is between 280 and 640 rpm). Fill &frac34; of the milky liquid into the bucket and with continuous stirring, slowly add grey powder. Mixing is continued, constantly moving the paddle around the drum, until a lump-free slurry is obtained. Then add the remaining milky liquid whilst continue stirring. This should take a maximum of 5 minutes.</p>

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">Application</h3>
<p>Use a soft block brush and spread the material to the required thickness. Do not add water to the material but dampen the surface.&nbsp; Finish in one direction for a neat appearance</p>

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">More coats</h3>
<p>Apply a second coat and third coat of duraflex&reg; to the whole area to be waterproofed. Apply coats at right angles to each other, allowing 16 hours between coats.</p>
<p>Apply 1kg per coat per m2, 3 coats required.</p>
<p>5kg covers approx.1.5m2 and</p>
<p>15kg covers approx. 4.5m2</p>

<h3 class="text-2xl font-bold">More information</h3>
<p>duraflex&reg; may be left as is, be painted with high quality PVA acrylic paint or be tiled over.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>

Before embarking on tiling your shower ensure that the shower is waterproof

How to waterproof a shower with duraflex&reg;

<p><strong>super laykold&reg;</strong> is a water-based bitumen system for waterproofing porous and non-porous surfaces from foundation to roof.&nbsp; ​Applications are easy for DIY or Contractor, 7-year product quality guarantee, an all-in-one versatile system and strong brand equity. Self-priming on concrete, <strong>metal-etch primer </strong>on metal surfaces. Reinforce with <strong>membrane</strong> if required.&nbsp; Protect with <strong>silvakote</strong><strong>&reg;</strong><strong>&nbsp;eco </strong>if exposed to UV.&nbsp; ​Suitable for tanking, flat roofing, sealing joints, laps and roofing screws and water retaining.&nbsp; Non-toxic.</p>

<h2 class="text-3xl font-bold">Surface Preparation</h2>
<ul>
<li>All surfaces are to be clean, dry, sound, and free of all laitance, grease, oil, fungal growth, or loose and flaking particles.</li>
<li>This could be achieved by wire brushing or high-pressure washing having a rotating nozzle and operating pressure of approximately 170 bar, finally rinsing with clean water</li>
<li><strong>New galvanised iron: </strong>The surface has to be thoroughly cleaned using sugar soap or any other grease-cutting detergent to remove oils followed by thorough rinsing or high-pressure washing using clean water to reveal a clean, sound, water-break-free surface</li>
<li><strong>Old galvanised iron: </strong>Remove all loose rust, dirt, and salts of zinc corrosion and scale by means of wire brushing, sanding, chipping, or mechanical scouring; down to bright metal followed by thorough rinsing or high-pressure washing using clean water to reveal a clean, sound, water break free surface</li>
</ul>

<h2 class="text-3xl font-bold">Bonding</h2>
<ul>
<li>Mix one part <strong>super laykold®</strong> with one part clean water and prime the total area to be covered. As a guide 0.25 ℓ of the diluted primer will cover 1 m². Allow to dry</li>
<li><strong>Metal surfaces only: </strong>New galvanised iron - prime with <strong>bituprime®</strong> or <strong>4 metal primer </strong>and allow to dry. Old galvanised iron - prime with <strong>4 metal primer </strong>and allow to dry</li>
</ul>

<h2>Mixing</h2>
<p>Stir well before use</p>
<p><strong>Coverage:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>2.1 ℓ /m² full system</li>
</ul>

<h2>Application</h2>
<p><strong>First coat (all surfaces after priming):</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Brush or roll on a thick coat (0.75 ℓ/m2) and embed the <strong>abe® membrane</strong> well into the wet coating. On flat surfaces, it is recommended to use a fluted aluminium roller for this purpose</li>
<li>Membrane overlaps should be a minimum of 100 mm on end laps and 75 mm on side laps</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Second coat:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>When the first coat has dried sufficiently to take working traffic (2 – 3 hours), apply a second coat of <strong>super laykold® </strong>(0.75 ℓ/m²) to ensure the membrane is completely saturated, and allow to dry</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Third coat:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Apply a final coat of <strong>super laykold® </strong>(0.6 ℓ/m²) to give a smooth finish</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Note: </strong>If <strong>super laykold®</strong> is used in a koi pond or dam, allow to dry for 14 days. Flush with clean water before filling.</p>

<h2>UV Protection</h2>
<p>Allow the system to dry for 7 - 10 days and then overcoat exposed areas with <strong>silvakote®</strong></p>
<h2>Cleanup</h2>
<ul>
<li>Tools, brushes and mixing equipment should be cleaned immediately after use and before the material has set with <strong>abe® super brush cleaner</strong></li>
<li>Wash with soap and water</li>
</ul>

Easy to follow step-by-step guide on how to waterproof your entire house from the foundation to the roof with super laykold

How to waterproof from the foundation to the roof with super laykold

For any compound to adhere properly to a substrate the surface needs&NewLine;&NewLine;to be correctly prepared. Here is a step-by-step guide.

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